Yetkha Bahal (येतखा बाहाल ) - A Hidden Gem
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Despite the extreme hustle and bustle of overpopulated Kathmandu city, you will soon feel at peace, once you’re inside the Yetkha Bahal. ‘Bahal’ is a traditional courtyard, built with amazing Newa art and architecture. I like to refer it as a living museum, where you get to see the ancient heritage alive. You will find plenty of these Bahals throughout the different places and cities of स्वनिग (Swaniga- the Kathmandu Valley). Such ancient courtyards can give you some impressions of what life must have been like in Swaniga, hundreds or thousands of years ago. Personally, I find these Bahals very peaceful, unique, and one of the exotic things to see in Kathmandu Valley. They are a masterpiece, which clearly displays the expertise in ancient civil engineering Newars have had, since thousands of years ago.
The design, structure, and the motive behind making these Bahals, captivates me. There are just so many things to learn and explore inside a single courtyard. Bahal is commonplace for people of that community to mingle with each other, host cultural events, and carry other social activities. It is simply, an open space, where the whole community can come together to celebrate any special occasion or to seek protection, in the event of any natural calamities, such as Earthquake.
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| Chaitya (Stupa), inside Yetkha Bahal |
Bahal and Buddhism
Every Bahal would either have a (1) पंच बुद्ध (Pancha Buddha) known as चि बा: द्य (2) Chaitya (Stupa), or a (3) Temple with Buddhist Gods. In some Bahals, you may find all three of them and in some, one of those three. These objects clearly display strong faith and devotion of Newars, towards Buddhism.
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| Photo: Courtyard outside my house, Maru Tole, Kathmandu, Nov 2014 |
The two Highlighted structures in the center are the shrine of Pancha Buddha and the rectangular area to left is the shrine of Goddess Kumari. Every morning and night, the people from this community would come and pay their homage to these shrines by lighting cotton oil lamps and offering fruits and flowers. Just like my Ancestors, I grew up playing in this Bahal. I can't recall a single day that I did not go to this courtyard when I was young. I vividly recall how I spent my childhood in this small but wonderful courtyard, with my friends and family. We celebrated festivals, such as Shivaratri, Shree Pancami, and perform various other activities, in this Bahal.
Photo: चि बा: द्य, Maru Khyokeba Bahal. Prazol Maharjan, 2014
How the name Yetkha – came into existence?
There are stories and reasons behind everything that are associated with Newars. Whether it be a festival, food or naming of the place. Everything has its own unique story. I find them very educational and interesting. The word – येतखा (Yetkha) is made up of two words- य़े: (Yei) + तख्खा (Takha). य़े: (Yen) refers to Kathmandu and ‘तख्खा’ (Takha) refers to Big, in Nepal Bhasa. When this courtyard was built, it was the biggest one in Kathmandu. Thus, this place was given a name, ‘Yetkha Bahal’. It probably still, is the biggest courtyard in the whole Kathmandu Valley, today.
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| Unmanaged wire and broken alley obstructing the beauty of Yetkha Bahal |
Location and details inside Yetkha Bahal
This Bahal is truly a gem hidden off the main road just North of Kathmandu Durbar Square. The central Chaitya (stupa) in the courtyard represents a mini Swayambhu Maha Chaitya. Located, directly behind is an ancient house built with ethnic Newari architecture, displaying the unique woodwork. The upper story is supported by four beautifully carved wood struts carved in the form of Yaksha (attendant or deities) along with the vintage तिकी झ्या (Tiki Jhya- a traditional wooden window with multiple tiny holes carved) and the building is guarded by two Lions, carved out of a stone. As per some experts, this house was probably between the 12th to 13th centuries. Thus, every Bahals holds have their own stories, mysteries, and fascinating stories, that teach you something.
It is very common to find traditional and old houses built with Newa architecture and style throughout the Kathmandu Valley, especially inside such ancient courtyards. The traditional houses displays, not only an amazing Newa architecture but also simply shows the durability of such architecture, compared to the newly built ones, today.
The traditional house inside the Courtyard
Yetkha Bahal is located within the walking distance from my house. I’ve been there multiple times since my childhood. I would often go there to see my Nini (Father’s sister) and my cousins. My heart would always fill with joy when I find myself in the courtyard. Today, this historical site is falling apart.
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द्य छें - House of God. Located directly behind the Chaitya
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Both Chaitya and a traditional house, located directly behind, are in need of immediate restorations. The tiny drapery, under need the roof which goes from one end to another on the upper story, has already lost its color. I witnessed a similar situation with the beautiful traditional exterior red bricks and the amazing windows of the building. Likewise, the big white Chaitya in the middle did not look the same either. As a matter of fact, such Bahals have been reduced to parking lots, today in multiple places. Clearly, Bahals are not built for such purpose.
If necessary, restorations are not done to these historical sites, they may soon fall apart. The next generations may never get to see or witness such amazing architectures. The heritage of Kathmandu Valley is the true essence of the country. They have given a unique identity of Nepal, in the World stage. Unfortunately, the Nepalese Government would not allocate enough funds and appoint the right people to take care of such heritage of the country.
Newa heritage in the neighboring country vs. Nepal
What can we do to protect and preserve these Ancient Heritages?
We cannot make another Bahal today, we do not have such expertise left. Even if we do, there is no open space left in Kathmandu Valley, to build one. The locals of Swaniga have continuously expressed their dissatisfaction with the Government. They feel that the Nepal Department of Archaeology has shown very little interest in preserving the precious heritage and ancient sites of the Valley. They do not have the same attachment and a sense of connection with the heritage, like the locals.
Ashma Shrestha, originally from Kathmandu, now residing in States, says that “Nepal Government should keep up with the maintenance. In Europe, they have preserved their historical sites because it really brings tourism. They had closed Big Ben in London for maintenance for almost 2-3 months. It is sad how our historical sites are forgotten in Nepal.”
Let's be honest, 'no one will take care and love your house as much as you would.' The responsible people in the authority today, neither have the attachment nor any expertise in the ancient heritage. I strongly feel that the Natives of Kathmandu Valley should be appointed to oversee the Archaeology Department. I do not mean to brag, but go take a tour of Kathmandu Valley, every Temple, Chaityas, Courtyard, Monasteries, ancient sites you see, were built by Newars. They are the most sought-after artist in the country. Many Artists often get invited to different countries, to build similar art and architecture. Yet, our own government fails to recognize them in their own country. These heritages are identity, and soul for Newars. In fact, these are the things that have made Nepal, unique in the World Stage.
I strongly feel that the Nepalese government must employ the Natives of Kathmandu Valley in Archaeology Department to oversee the traditional heritage of Kathmandu Valley. The local Newars have deeper knowledge and skills in ancient art and architecture, more than anyone else. I also suggest the government, form a special committee to hold frequent discussions and meetings with the seniors of the community, before beginning any restoration or new construction. Proper research should be done to discover if a new construction in the area would bring any negative impacts to the existing heritage. Additionally, the government shall incorporate the study of the Ancient Heritage of Nepal, in the education curriculum. I believe, this as a result, the new generation will bring contemporary ways to, preserve and protect the ancient heritage of Nepal.
I truly feel that some of the above measures will contribute greatly to preserving the heritage of the Kathmandu Valley. Also, the Government should build a system to reward and recognize the people who are working to protect the heritage of Kathmandu Valley. It will encourage others to do the same. "Nepal Government shall plan things in such a way, so the locals from the neighborhood benefit from the money generated from tourists", as stated by Durgesh Man Singh (Former EU Ambassador). These should be preserved not just for money, anyone who visits such places, would bring them closer to the lifestyle, a culture that is gradually disappearing.
Yes, all the heritages in Kathmandu Valley were built by Newars but it belongs to the whole Nation. They built them to serve the whole community and handed down to the next generation. It is our responsibility, to do the same. Overpopulation and aggressive development plans are killing these historical sites. We must come together, hold ourselves and the Government accountable.
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